A pain in the pants... making your own pants

     I have been teaching myself fitting techniques since I started sewing for myself five years ago. I took a class and made a "dummy" out of duct tape. That has worked well for the upper torso fitting projects. In the first three years I made 4 jackets and maybe 6 or 7 tops. I feel that most of my tops look like they fit me. I had to analyze my shoulder line and master the large bust adjustments.
     Last year I decided that I wanted to make some pants for myself. I had my husband take pictures of me in all of my pants. I soon realized that they all had the same problem and were all pulling in the same spot. I bought Kenneth Kings fitting CD's Smart Fitting with Kenneth King and I could follow his explanation on that CD but when it came to reading my own "wrinkles" I was clueless. The second thing I did was take a fitting class from Sarah Veblen and bought her book: The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting. I understood better what my fitting problem was from her book and what I needed to do. The problem with the pants I made from that pattern was that she gave me way more easy than I like in my clothing. I thought they looked too baggy. (Some people feel that if you are a plus size you want your clothing baggy, I do not.) I do recommend her book as it is really informative and the design ease is such a person thing.
     The third system I used was taught to me by my friend in the American Sewing Guild. We used a book: (How to make sewing Patterns by Donald H. McCunn) and built our pattern by using our own body measurements. I did this kicking and screaming because I feel I am too lousy with math.
     She put up with my shenanigans and walked me through it. The pants fit with enough room to move and drape nicely over my curves. Now I have a template that I can use to compare commercial patterns.
     I used Vogue 9131 for my pants. They compared to my self made pants pattern very nicely. I didn't have to change much except for the crotch curve.
     I saw a pair of pants on the Nordstrom web site in August.

I decided I wanted to make pants that had this length and tapered leg. So I happened to be shopping at our going out of business Hancock store and found similar fabric.These are what I made.

Willow the Corgi

Vogue 9131

Do you have a pants story? Tell me about it.

Pants update I am a "deep" person

I took a pants fitting workshop with http://www.sarahveblen.com/ Sarah Veblen. During the workshop I tried on ready made pants samples of the Fit for Art Eureka pants that Fit. I had a choice of one front pattern and three back pattern pieces.
I learned that most people are evaluated by their width side to side measurement from the front view. Length from waist to center crotch and the depth of their bodies as viewed from the side. I have way more depth to my body when viewed from the side than I do width when viewed from the front. When wearing pants that means I need more depth so that I can "sit" comfortably in my pants.
I made the mock up muslin and it fit very nicely in the muslin toile.
At the workshop there was a person who could mark your purchased pattern pieces so that I can replicate the sample I tried on.
So I am making my first pair of pants. I bought a jeans pattern from Butterick 6327 and adapted that pattern back so that it matched my muslin pattern. I wanted a jeans look to my pants even though I am making them out of a linen blend.I think the fit in the front is overall good but they are just too big in the legs. the front hits exactly on my waist and on my side seams are where they should be. The pant legs look twisted but they are not just getting caught up on my sandal straps. The fit in the back is good across my buttocks. The pocket placement I like. The excess fabric that should curve around my butt indicates they are too big there. There is no gripping and pulling under my butt cheek which means my crotch seam is long enough. I don't carry the bulk of my weight on my lower hips but on a high hip area. These issues I will tweak in my next pair of pants. The fabric also was a much looser weave then the toile and has stretched a bit too.

 

 The top is just a white sweatshirt revamped. I just cut off the knit cuffs hem and neckline tucked it under and sewed. The closeup is the reverse applique that I added and used the lace again on the underside. I used complimentary thread colors in the bean stitching. Hope you like the colors I used these are new to me. I never wore this shade of lilac before. All the fabrics were purchased at a local Hancocks fabric store that has gone out of business.....