Tuesday, July 7, 2015

Channel Jacket project Part II-selecting the lining and trims

Lining of the jacket:
I didn't just want to make a neutral beige jacket with an ivory lining. I wanted to punch it up with a bold print lining.
neutral creme lining

Trimming the jacket:
I picked out a trim that has the color of the main fabric as well as the color in the lining print.  There are many trim options for this type of jacket. the most commons is to attach a braid to the outer coat along the neckline hemline and cuffs. It is traditional Channel to have trim along the edges of the patch pockets as well. Here is the trim that I layered over a Petersham base. I think the Petersham needs to be narrower and perhaps a blue would be nice.
example of pocket trim
an example of trim placement
I am working on transferring my pattern markings onto the fabric so I can start the quilting process.  YES this jacket requires that you quilt the main fabric to its lining. Stay tuned for the next post whereby I will talk about the quilting process.

Friday, July 3, 2015

Channel Jacket Project--- very long post warning!

About a year ago I decided I wanted a Tweed Boucle Channel style jacket and started to think about how to accomplish this project. Clarie Shaffer has a whole book dedicated to this couture made jacket. At that time I became aware of  Craftsy classes on line. I took advantage of a holiday sale and got two of them on sale; The Iconic Tweed Jacket and Jacket Fitting Techniques. One was on pattern fitting for jackets and the other was making a cardigan jacket -Channel jacket. I decided to use the Vogue Pattern that the Craftsy class uses Vogue 7975. Mine will be view E a longer jacket with buttons.
Vogue 7975 /view E

There are many patterns out there with this cardigan jacket in mind here are a few that I found a while back. Some have some very couture details and some are much simpler. I am not a couture sewer but can do some of the techniques.
Whenever I take on a big project I want to do it correctly and I don't worry how long it will take me to finish the project. 
Some fitting issues I needed to fix
during the fitting process
Before I sew anything I make a test garment called a muslin some people call it a toile. In order to do this you must cut the tissue pattern out of fabric and sew it together discover how your body differs than the pattern make the adjustments and cut a new toile until you get a great fit. It is difficult to do this on yourself and very time consuming. I decided to use my dress form and duck tape. Yes you can duck tape yourself and create a shell that can then be placed on a dress form and with a bit of stuffing voila you have an exact replica of your body. This took time for the class to come and for the form to be finished but I did get a good fit using this method. I also bought the fitting series DVD by Kenneth D. King called Smart Fitting.  It is a interesting CD but not for beginners.
I had bought my fabric a few years ago when it was on sale and I got another recently on sale. Both are synthetics and cheaper than the Linton tweeds that is popular for this jacket.
After all of this time which is six months ago I finally have my fabric and lining cut out. I am making a version with buttons and trim that goes around the neckline down the front and along the hemline. the edge of the sleeves with have it too. I am making a two piece sleeve but without the button vent. I decided that I didnt want that much fussiness in my first jacket.
The trim ideas are many and I have so many ideas but think I have setting on an easy but nice version.
I am using the wrong nubby side as my right side
Here are the pictures of my pieces cut out.
 Have you ever done a project that took much time to plan and execute. I love the process so I don't mind the length of time to complete this project. Tomorrow I will post about my trim options.