Tuesday, November 1, 2016

A pain in the pants... making your own pants

     I have been teaching myself fitting techniques since I started sewing for myself five years ago. I took a class and made a "dummy" out of duct tape. That has worked well for the upper torso fitting projects. In the first three years I made 4 jackets and maybe 6 or 7 tops. I feel that most of my tops look like they fit me. I had to analyze my shoulder line and master the large bust adjustments.
     Last year I decided that I wanted to make some pants for myself. I had my husband take pictures of me in all of my pants. I soon realized that they all had the same problem and were all pulling in the same spot. I bought Kenneth Kings fitting CD's Smart Fitting with Kenneth King and I could follow his explanation on that CD but when it came to reading my own "wrinkles" I was clueless. The second thing I did was take a fitting class from Sarah Veblen and bought her book: The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting. I understood better what my fitting problem was from her book and what I needed to do. The problem with the pants I made from that pattern was that she gave me way more easy than I like in my clothing. I thought they looked too baggy. (Some people feel that if you are a plus size you want your clothing baggy, I do not.) I do recommend her book as it is really informative and the design ease is such a person thing.
     The third system I used was taught to me by my friend in the American Sewing Guild. We used a book: (How to make sewing Patterns by Donald H. McCunn) and built our pattern by using our own body measurements. I did this kicking and screaming because I feel I am too lousy with math.
     She put up with my shenanigans and walked me through it. The pants fit with enough room to move and drape nicely over my curves. Now I have a template that I can use to compare commercial patterns.
     I used Vogue 9131 for my pants. They compared to my self made pants pattern very nicely. I didn't have to change much except for the crotch curve.
     I saw a pair of pants on the Nordstrom web site in August.
I decided I wanted to make pants that had this length and tapered leg. So I happened to be shopping at our going out of business Hancock store and found similar fabric.These are what I made.

Willow the Corgi
Vogue 9131

Do you have a pants story? Tell me about it.