Friday, July 15, 2016

Spring Components



I made two spring tops to go with the pants I talked about in my previous post. The tops came out more successfully than the pants did. I did not have anything in my wardrobe that was this pale lilac color. My pants were made with a linen type fabric with this lavender/ lilac color. I used lace on the pants pocket. The lace on the top is the same lace.
The Tye-dye fabric I just saw at my local Hancock's Fabric store that is going out of business. I had been wanting to try that McCall's 7094 pattern. It is too big but wearable. I loved the shoulder tucks. I am wearing the lilac pants with it in the pictures below. Do you like my sidekick, Willow the Corgi?

McCalls 7191 Is another top that I recently made. I also made a knit jacket to throw over it.
I love the cut out back in this pattern. The pattern was true to size and I just needed to do a simple Full Bust pattern adjustment. I used Sarah Veblens book to do this with and it came out perfectly. My new dog walking outfit. I used the left over fabric to trim my hat. I just rolled edge the fabric and draped it on the crown and pinned it with a matching flower trim. the knit jacket was a Simplicity jacket. I used some knit fabric I had from my mothers stash. I top stitched it with some variegated Superior thread. It came out beautifully.

Pants update I am a "deep" person

I took a pants fitting workshop with Sarah Veblen. During the workshop I tried on ready made pants samples of the Fit for Art Eureka pants that Fit. I had a choice of one front pattern and three back pattern pieces.
I learned that most people are evaluated by their width side to side measurement from the front view. Length from waist to center crotch and the depth of their bodies as viewed from the side. I have way more depth to my body when viewed from the side than I do width when viewed from the front. When wearing pants that means I need more depth so that I can "sit" comfortably in my pants.
I made the mock up muslin and it fit very nicely in the muslin toile.
At the workshop there was a person who could mark your purchased pattern pieces so that I can replicate the sample I tried on.
So I am making my first pair of pants. I bought a jeans pattern from Butterick 6327 and adapted that pattern back so that it matched my muslin pattern. I wanted a jeans look to my pants even though I am making them out of a linen blend.I think the fit in the front is overall good but they are just too big in the legs. the front hits exactly on my waist and on my side seams are where they should be. The pant legs look twisted but they are not just getting caught up on my sandal straps. The fit in the back is good across my buttocks. The pocket placement I like. The excess fabric that should curve around my butt indicates they are too big there. There is no gripping and pulling under my butt cheek which means my crotch seam is long enough. I don't carry the bulk of my weight on my lower hips but on a high hip area. These issues I will tweak in my next pair of pants. The fabric also was a much looser weave then the toile and has stretched a bit too.

 The top is just a white sweatshirt revamped. I just cut off the knit cuffs hem and neckline tucked it under and sewed. The closeup is the reverse applique that I added and used the lace again on the underside. I used complimentary thread colors in the bean stitching. Hope you like the colors I used these are new to me. I never wore this shade of lilac before. All the fabrics were purchased at a local Hancocks fabric store that has gone out of business.....

Monday, March 21, 2016

Another Jacket done! Simplicity 1320

I finally finished this Jacket that I started in Jan. It will be ready for fall. I seem to always do the wrong seasons jacket... I have to plan this better. I used pattern Simplicity 1320 I completed view C

The solid fabric is a cashmere wool very drapy and soft. The woven fabric is a boucle that is a synthetic blend. I loved the collar. I spent a lot of time fitting this jacket. I have many fitting challenges. I had to adjust for square shoulders, short back waist, full bust, slim arms, full waist, narrow hips.
I decided that I wanted the woven print down the middle instead of on the sides I thought it would give me a better line. There is a tab belt that needs to be sewn on the back woven panel that will give the illusion of a waste.
This fabric was given to me so this was my "toile" if you were. I am not sure I like the colorfulness of it yet. I think it has to do with a fall color pallet in the Spring. I am not sure I will make it again. I kind of like it and kind of not like it. I have the satisfaction of having finished something.
Now to start making the pants that I hope will fit me well.

Sunday, February 14, 2016

I'm a 'Tight A**'

Honey do these pants fit? A question to never ask your significant other or spouse? Flash-Flash I got him to take pictures. Well now all of my previously 'good pants' are in the give away pile. I realized that I don't have enough room in the seat area of my pants. This would be the crotch length. I also have too much room in the thigh area, skinny legs of an inverted triangle. If I size up then they are way too big everywhere. The seat curve is wrong as well I need a deeper curve. These statements probably make sense if you have ever attempted to make your self some pants. In March I am going to have a pants fitting session with Sarah Veblen, she is from Baltimore and has a book on fitting that I recently purchased. 
 Sarah Veblen Complete photo guide to Fitting

Baggy thighs

The best fit but pockets are too far apart

crotch depth too short legs too baggy

Boyfriend Jeans

I might have worn my jeans like this in the 60's

makes my derriere look flatter too tight

Almost there

new pants went up a size still don't fit

more of the same bad fit pockets way too far away
 I will be posting more as I start my adventure on pants making. Wish me good luck> Do you have a favorite pants pattern that you had lots of success using? I want to make jeans.

Saturday, January 2, 2016

New in 2016, Millinery, flat pattern hats

The Millinery has been busy. I have made some new felt hats and a few flat pattern hats. Yes I can sew and I do love to use all of the
features on my machines.Patty was gracious enough to model for me.

I have been sewing up a storm to finish all of my projects started in 2015. I took a few refresher and new courses in 2015 so hopefully you will see my millinery skills evolve to a new level in 2016.

Monday, November 2, 2015

Winter hats and more

I have decided it is about time I post some more hats pictures. I have been busy in the millinery.
This one I re-trimmed and finished the edge with a binding Do you like my ribbon turkey?

brown straw with embroidered flower

A nod to my Irish heritage

I have two winter coats, one is a blue wool the other a camel hair coat in that color. So I like to coordinate my hats to my winter coats. I have other more casual jacket I wear and usually wear cloth brimmed hats with those. These hats are ones I blocked at Wayne Wichern's in September. I had a chance to take a class from him to refine my skill set. I left the final trimming to be done at home.Do you wear coat hats? I think it is fun to dress up in a coat hat in the winter.

Sunday, October 18, 2015

Chanel Jacket FINALLY done!!!!!

I have been literally working on this Chanel jacket for over 1.5 years. I intend on making three of them. This first one was the trial one where I can make all of my mistakes. I did a lot of hand sewing. The organza selvage strips used to reinforce all of the folds and edges all hand stitched. The seams of the lining all hand stitched. The double layer of the trims ribbon and top trim all hand stitched.
A few of the jacket seams were machine stitched as well as the quilting of the lining was done by machine. 
The fitting of the muslin was a real labor of love. You would think it would have been easy as it is a boxy jacket and I have a boxy build, but it was not. I have very horizontal shoulders way more than the pattern allows.
Over all I did enjoy the process very much. I used the Craftsy class "The Iconic Tweed Jacket" as my teacher and used the Vogue pattern 7975 as my basis for the jacket. The fabric I used was a type of synthetic tweed wool blend. The lining was polyester. I have to say that polyester had a mind of its own and was a beast to work with.  I will use silk for the lining next time so much easier to work with I think.I am going over to Visible Monday on her new website hosting page see ya there.