Friday, July 3, 2015

Channel Jacket Project--- very long post warning!

About a year ago I decided I wanted a Tweed Boucle Channel style jacket and started to think about how to accomplish this project. Clarie Shaffer has a whole book dedicated to this couture made jacket. At that time I became aware of  Craftsy classes on line. I took advantage of a holiday sale and got two of them on sale; The Iconic Tweed Jacket and Jacket Fitting Techniques. One was on pattern fitting for jackets and the other was making a cardigan jacket -Channel jacket. I decided to use the Vogue Pattern that the Craftsy class uses Vogue 7975. Mine will be view E a longer jacket with buttons.
Vogue 7975 /view E

There are many patterns out there with this cardigan jacket in mind here are a few that I found a while back. Some have some very couture details and some are much simpler. I am not a couture sewer but can do some of the techniques.
Whenever I take on a big project I want to do it correctly and I don't worry how long it will take me to finish the project. 
Some fitting issues I needed to fix
during the fitting process
Before I sew anything I make a test garment called a muslin some people call it a toile. In order to do this you must cut the tissue pattern out of fabric and sew it together discover how your body differs than the pattern make the adjustments and cut a new toile until you get a great fit. It is difficult to do this on yourself and very time consuming. I decided to use my dress form and duck tape. Yes you can duck tape yourself and create a shell that can then be placed on a dress form and with a bit of stuffing voila you have an exact replica of your body. This took time for the class to come and for the form to be finished but I did get a good fit using this method. I also bought the fitting series DVD by Kenneth D. King called Smart Fitting.  It is a interesting CD but not for beginners.
I had bought my fabric a few years ago when it was on sale and I got another recently on sale. Both are synthetics and cheaper than the Linton tweeds that is popular for this jacket.
After all of this time which is six months ago I finally have my fabric and lining cut out. I am making a version with buttons and trim that goes around the neckline down the front and along the hemline. the edge of the sleeves with have it too. I am making a two piece sleeve but without the button vent. I decided that I didnt want that much fussiness in my first jacket.
The trim ideas are many and I have so many ideas but think I have setting on an easy but nice version.
I am using the wrong nubby side as my right side
Here are the pictures of my pieces cut out.
 Have you ever done a project that took much time to plan and execute. I love the process so I don't mind the length of time to complete this project. Tomorrow I will post about my trim options.

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